We started the day by flipping the intake. First, the intake manifold was removed. This engine will take some cleaning and will be getting a head rebuild.
Next, fit was observed to be impeded in a few places. There's a nub at the back that interferes with the front heater tube, which is easily cut. There are two alignment pins that fit in the head that prevent flipping, again easy to remove. Last, the back lip hits the water return neck and needs a slight trimming. When reinstalling the intake, I'll be careful and come up with a way to align the intake on the heads to avoid a misalignment of the intake ports.
Here's the intake manifold, flipped.
I was able to install the upper motor mounts on the block but had to trim one to get it to fit instead of trimming the factory boss. The side in this picture fit without any trimming.
We slung the engine with tie straps instead of chains; I couldn't find a good place to anchor the chains so we did this instead. There's probably 350 lbs max on the front strap, which is well within its capacity. However, the first attempt to put the motor in was met with disappointment. The engine hoist isn't long enough and the motor was angled not far enough forward. We started to get it in but had a hard time getting it back out to adjust the straps. However, once we move the strap support point back, the engine tilted forward more and it was much easier.
Although it looks like it's in, the engine is sitting on the mounts in the correct position but the rear transaxle mounts aren't sitting in their place. This is because of clearance issues up front.
I'm pretty happy in this picture.
Chris Hecht helped a lot and wanted his picture taken, too.
Too close here. There are several areas where further cutting will be required.