The 351 Cleveland is being rebuilt.  Here's a parts list for the final concept:

381 c.i. Version:

1. Scat 3.75" 4340 forged crankshaft, part #4-351C-3750-6000 ($660).
2. Scat I-beam rods with ARP 2000 bolts ($375).
3. Probe SRS forged 2cc flat top piston w/1.20" compression height, part #14212-020 ($520, 1/16, 1/16, 3mm rings).
4. Piston rings, 1/16, 1/16, 3mm, plasma moly-faced top ring, napier second ring, and standard tension oil ring.
5. Clevite Tri-armor H main & rod bearings, chosen by machinist.
6. ARP main cap stud kit for four-bolt main caps, already have.
7. ARP head stud kit, already have.
8. Romac dampener, #0203, ($240).
9. McLeod steel flywheel, ($313).
10. Melling M84A standard volume oil pump (already have).
11. Rollmaster timing chain, #CS3130 with integral crank snout spacer, ($128).
12. Kevko road race fully baffled oil pan w/ pickup and scraper, already have.
13. Gasket set, already have most of this.
14. Honing for rings.
15. Trick Flow 225cc bare aluminum heads with 72cc combustion chambers ($1850).  I'll probably put Manley stainless race vales, conical valve springs, and viton seals in the heads and have the seats ground.
16. Custom hydraulic roller cam, design based upon head flow numbers, ($290).  I'm leaning toward about 230/234 degrees dual pattern with 0.61" total lift and 112 degree separation angle.  The EFI should help keep the thing idling fine.
17. Crane Cams hydraulic roller lifters, already have.
18. 3/86" pushrods, custom length to suit rocker arm and head after assembly, ($90).
19.  Yella Terra roller rockers, part number YT-6321, ($740)
20. Aluminum DeTomaso valve covers, black crinkle (already have).
21. Flowkooler aluminum water pump, part #1648, ($120) or use cast iron pump I already have.
22. Trick Flow Box-R intake and lower, ($740).
23. Accufab 90mm throttle body ($360).
24. 42 lb/hr EV1-style injectors ($350).
25. Fuel rails ($90).


The block is a D0AE 351 Cleveland block, cast in 1970, with no "XXX" in the lifter bore valley.  The block was a virgin, unbored 2-bolt main cap block with minor ridges on the thrust walls. Block was taken to Fastlane Machine and inspected for cylinder wall thickness using an (ultra)sonic tester. Results of the testing are as follows:

Average Thrust Wall Thickness:  0.2"
Minimum Thrust Wall Thickness:  0.185"
Average Non-thrust Wall Thickness:  0.135"
Minimum Non-thrust Wall Thickness: 0.116" (cylinder #5, showing some core shift of 0.020")

This is a very good block in my opinion.  There is some core shift.  I was also told that since I have an early D0AE block that I wouldn't see severe core shift, and that once the molds started to wear out, the core shift became more pronounced.

Block was baked, hot-tanked, media-blasted, and inspected.  Holes were drilled for 4-bolt main caps and 4-bolt caps were installed with ARP studs.  With the caps torqued in place, the mains were align-honed.  The block was rough-bored to meet the projected 4.020" overbore.  The lower overbore means that the block can be taken to 0.030" in the future if needed.  It also means that the block may have 0.106" minimum cylinder wall thickness on one cylinder after being bored, plus or minus some since the block was bored by indexing to the crankshaft centerline.  Most recommendations for minimum cylinder wall thickness for a Cleveland block are 0.1" minimum anywhere and 0.120" minimum on the thrust walls.  If the cylinder walls are too thin, the rings will never seal and the block won't make the power that one would expect.  A couple solutions for a thin-walled block out of this tolerance would be to scrap the block and find another, sleeve the block, or go with an aftermarket Windsor-style block.

I will be modifying the oiling system.  I've purchased cam bearings that restrict oil flow by clocking the bearings from Tim Meyer.  Bronze lifter bore bushings have been installed by a CNC machine and indexed to the camshaft bore centerline.

The crank and rod length has been carefully chosen for the rod/stroke ratio and the rod angle.  The pressure exerted on the cylinder walls is a function of the rod angle and piston configuration.  I want a little more stroke than stock since the Cleveland head architecture really behaves well with increased stroke and subsequent displacement, but I don't want a Ford 400 since it increases the amount of "headaches" with such a swap.  Tim Meyer suggested the ultra-light rods to reduce the mass of the rotating assembly acting on the cylinder walls.

So let's do some math:

The rod angle for this calculation would be the arccos(stroke/2*rod length)
  • A stock stroke with 5.78" long rods gives an approximate maximum rod angle at the 90 degree crank angle of 72.4 degrees.  The effective area of piston skirt may be approximately 9 sq. inches, for the sake of comparison.
  • A 3.75" stroke/6.125" rod maximum rod angle would be 72.2 degrees, which is a negligible increase from stock. The effective area of piston skirt may be about 8 sq. inches, which means the piston may exert 12% more force per area on the sidewall.  I think this is possible to live with if RPM is kept to a decent maximum.
  • A 4.0" stroke/6" rod maximum rod angle would be 70.5 degrees, which is a 3% increase from stock.  The piston may exert 25% more force per area on the sidewall.  
  • A 3.85" stroke/6" rod maximum rod angle would be 71.2 degrees, which is a 3% increase from stock.  The piston may exert 20% more force per area on the sidewall.
Pistons could be custom or Probe forged pistons.  I like the Trick Flow heads since they use the 2V port style, which works for a lot of newer and older intakes.

Induction Systems:

The Trick Flow Specialties Box-R intake appears to be much better suited to a 450 HP+ Cleveland.  TFS confirmed to me that the Box-R intake is 13-5/8" tall for the 351c manifold as delivered.  5/8" can be milled off the spacer between lower and upper intakes, and 1/4" can be milled off the lower intake.  So, you may get the intake down to about 12-3/4" tall but not short enough to fit under the decklid.  I currently have about 10" clear to the underside of the decklid and almost 11" to the top of the decklid.  Dan Jones ran a quick simulation of the standard R intakes for me and found that it restricts the power for such an engine.  I don't mind the look of the Box-R intake, especially if it's tastefully matched to the valve covers and other engine treatments.  I don't care for polished stuff but I do like a great looking, well-thought-out engine combination.

Updated 3/7/15.