tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-86481954367570065252024-03-13T07:39:22.009-06:00Project PanteraPantera car restoration project.Coreyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/18379428253948915904noreply@blogger.comBlogger126125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8648195436757006525.post-24975438801334183562019-10-18T21:39:00.002-06:002019-10-18T21:39:25.497-06:00Cutting the firewall<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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I started cutting the firewall last year, about this time. The problem with cutting the firewall is that there are two sheetmetal stampings that seem to be valuable. I saved all of the sheetmetal that was cut out. I'll keep it around just in case someone wants to go back to the way the car was originally.<br />
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-pgP6tOS7LGc/XZOlPPFfgJI/AAAAAAAAECw/V7zSo4EmVh8Ml7xX-LGLiRfBcVCR3fd4QCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/3.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-pgP6tOS7LGc/XZOlPPFfgJI/AAAAAAAAECw/V7zSo4EmVh8Ml7xX-LGLiRfBcVCR3fd4QCLcBGAsYHQ/s320/3.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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First cut is done, and the stiffening rail is being removed slowly at the spot welds.</div>
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Sheetmetal removed. There will be some trimming when placing the Coyote.</div>
<br />Coreyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/18379428253948915904noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8648195436757006525.post-82728198473804512962019-10-04T22:08:00.001-06:002019-10-04T22:10:06.217-06:00Coyote Assembly Part 3<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
I had a very slight problem when I installed the heads. Thinking the pistons would definitely clear the heads without issue, I installed the heads. The installation proved to be a complete disaster. The rotating assembly wouldn't turn over! I realized there was something seriously wrong and deduced it was due to piston/head interference. I called Mahle, and they explained there was a bad batch of pistons that went out of their facility. They offered to send me a brand new set of pistons to replace the set that I had. The only thing I was out was the head bolts since they are a one-time use as well as head gaskets. The new head bolts were still cheaper than head studs, so I counted myself lucky.</div>
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Here's the shape of the two pistons. Notice the top piston has a very tight machined lip (at the "F" arrow) versus the bottom piston, which has a generous lip. The bottom pistons were the correct piston for the application.</div>
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Here's the block with one head removed and ready to replace each piston set. Luckily the rings were easy to transfer, but those stupid circlips are always a problem to get on!</div>
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I primed each hydraulic lash adjuster by using a small allen key to release tension on the spring inside and allow oil in. I'm not sure if it will help in the long run.</div>
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The heads are back on the short block and ready to receive timing chains. I installed a MMR Hurricane oil pump with billet gears to avoid any failures of the known brittle stock oil pump gears.</div>
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-5KPfaWedSOg/XZgMjKWL1xI/AAAAAAAAED4/92-N1spq_2sFrWn-QcKOjOzGvQwsEsSYgCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/x1Es2h9LRKmnMgcxhG0KJg.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-5KPfaWedSOg/XZgMjKWL1xI/AAAAAAAAED4/92-N1spq_2sFrWn-QcKOjOzGvQwsEsSYgCLcBGAsYHQ/s320/x1Es2h9LRKmnMgcxhG0KJg.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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After installing lash adjusters and captive roller followers, I installed the first set of camshafts and bolted the camshaft bearing caps down with ARP cam cap bolts. Normally these bolts are torque to yield and throw-away items, but not so now!</div>
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-dXrCm47FrpQ/XZgMiuYjviI/AAAAAAAAEDw/5kS6j9WMOF0WfhCqNaZrtbHPBJvNG97ngCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/l3HMWwsbQcmT1PGLNQzrSA.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-dXrCm47FrpQ/XZgMiuYjviI/AAAAAAAAEDw/5kS6j9WMOF0WfhCqNaZrtbHPBJvNG97ngCLcBGAsYHQ/s320/l3HMWwsbQcmT1PGLNQzrSA.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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I installed primary and secondary timing chains using a video on Youtube. The timing chains, phasers, guides, etc. were all original to the engine. I replaced the timing chain tensioners with Boss 302 units for higher RPM stability. I also replaced the brittle stock crank timing gear with a billet TSS unit, specific to the Gen 1 Coyotes. The great thing about VCT technology is that I didn't have to adjust the cam timing. All you do is align dots on various cams to the dark timing chain links (in order) and you're done. </div>
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Here's the finished engine, awaiting a front timing chain cover.</div>
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The front timing cover is a new unit specifically made for supercharged Mustang GT applications. The previous F150 timing cover is missing a critical boss for the Mustang GT style alternator and accessories.</div>
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ENNJiap332Y/XZgMh828SuI/AAAAAAAAEDc/oWYGMAcO1EY7A0jnz__Dck9EoJpx8H1mwCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/L0SHmle7RGuPNWPUn0qP%2525w.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ENNJiap332Y/XZgMh828SuI/AAAAAAAAEDc/oWYGMAcO1EY7A0jnz__Dck9EoJpx8H1mwCLcBGAsYHQ/s320/L0SHmle7RGuPNWPUn0qP%2525w.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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The Stef's oil pan is a completely custom aluminum unit, fully baffled with flexible rubber baffles instead of trap doors. The oil pan is specifically made for the Pantera and is sold by Pantera Performance Center. The pickup was installed with putty and the gasket/windage tray to check oil pump pickup clearances. No adjustments were needed since the pickup was within tolerance at about a 3/8" gap.</div>
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-T2lD_xofk0U/XZgMhj4Ru5I/AAAAAAAAEDY/WJ_QX5em1-0WR0zw4rzcVseIICCk0YVsQCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/9h2%2525P8B5Skuxi8DJX10I9A.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-T2lD_xofk0U/XZgMhj4Ru5I/AAAAAAAAEDY/WJ_QX5em1-0WR0zw4rzcVseIICCk0YVsQCLcBGAsYHQ/s320/9h2%2525P8B5Skuxi8DJX10I9A.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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With the oil pan installed, the bottom end looks beautiful.</div>
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A large notch is necessary to clear the rear A-arm crossover frame piece, which won't be cut out of my car. If I want to access the crank, I'll have to remove the engine which negates any reason to remove the crossover piece.</div>
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-oGO25MD1atQ/XZgMiQqxePI/AAAAAAAAEDo/j5U5mOXuixQH7N2k1EHFi98UvTFl42wLwCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/YrvYNc4MTbWD0JwfhISOSQ.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-oGO25MD1atQ/XZgMiQqxePI/AAAAAAAAEDo/j5U5mOXuixQH7N2k1EHFi98UvTFl42wLwCLcBGAsYHQ/s320/YrvYNc4MTbWD0JwfhISOSQ.jpg" width="320" /></a><br />
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The finished engine long block assembly, complete with phaser actuators and valve covers. Each place where a gasket might have a three-way junction was augmented by a dab of RTV, just like the factory. Note that the balancer has not been installed yet, which means the engine is not completely sealed yet.<br />
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(All work shown in this post was done in 2018)</div>
<br />Coreyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/18379428253948915904noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8648195436757006525.post-836032024908819422019-10-01T12:13:00.005-06:002019-10-04T22:11:13.913-06:00Coyote Assembly Part 2I had the heads rebuilt by a local guy with lots of head rebuilding experience. He knew what to do with the head. I installed Manley stainless valves, Boss 302 springs, and other new hardware as needed. The heads were surfaced at the same time by a very small amount.<br />
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Head bolts were torqued and turned to the required angle using factory replacement TTY head bolts in the proper sequence. </div>
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Completed head and block assembly </div>
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(All work shown in this post was done in 2018)</div>
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<br />Coreyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/18379428253948915904noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8648195436757006525.post-33847859793042849782019-09-28T07:08:00.001-06:002019-10-04T22:11:29.667-06:00Coyote Assembly Part 1<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
Assembly of the short block took a lot of time. Next time, I'll let someone else assemble this part. </div>
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-rRv28JgIpeQ/XCuD5rSbdcI/AAAAAAAAD1s/h_b9Bi6qTZotRLyB91nV4nhg6G3ElEjXgCEwYBhgL/s1600/kukRrr3ERkKxCQxprc1Xug.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-rRv28JgIpeQ/XCuD5rSbdcI/AAAAAAAAD1s/h_b9Bi6qTZotRLyB91nV4nhg6G3ElEjXgCEwYBhgL/s320/kukRrr3ERkKxCQxprc1Xug.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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Each piston assembly is laid out and assembled. Getting the circlips on the pistons was no fun but a big highlighter pen helped my thumbs. Each ring was filed to fit the clearance requirements. I tried to be extra careful to avoid burs and keep the filing square to the ring. </div>
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I bought an adjustable conical ring compressor and it was awesome!</div>
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<a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-4QN92RT04wE/XCuD0UQ_ykI/AAAAAAAAD1E/BvcEc1fm9eAEMxRAVxMEhhvYRUxT9DJyQCEwYBhgL/s1600/7ouvz%252BsjSbqjEZx4Y5XLHg.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-4QN92RT04wE/XCuD0UQ_ykI/AAAAAAAAD1E/BvcEc1fm9eAEMxRAVxMEhhvYRUxT9DJyQCEwYBhgL/s320/7ouvz%252BsjSbqjEZx4Y5XLHg.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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Slipping each piston and rod into place. </div>
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Completed assembly. </div>
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The main cap bolts are torque to yield items that you torque, then rotate to a specific angle. The process is several steps long. </div>
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<a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-Dv7SOzHQ8KE/XCuD338LMVI/AAAAAAAAD1U/nc422YmSVi0WOtL-2SpBlYwJvKzHfG6dQCEwYBhgL/s1600/GKG4rDGuQ7i7PZgFGveUTQ.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="320" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-Dv7SOzHQ8KE/XCuD338LMVI/AAAAAAAAD1U/nc422YmSVi0WOtL-2SpBlYwJvKzHfG6dQCEwYBhgL/s320/GKG4rDGuQ7i7PZgFGveUTQ.jpg" width="240" /></a></div>
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Side bolts are installed after the main cap bolts.</div>
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The side cap bolts are also torque to yield. </div>
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<a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-ivrk9udINt4/XCuD4T7nlCI/AAAAAAAAD1c/YFUGIDX-BwokDL56ua1jQTNk4Khw24m9gCEwYBhgL/s1600/KfXK7ZjLQUmdxR%252B%252BIk%2525%252BOQ.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-ivrk9udINt4/XCuD4T7nlCI/AAAAAAAAD1c/YFUGIDX-BwokDL56ua1jQTNk4Khw24m9gCEwYBhgL/s320/KfXK7ZjLQUmdxR%252B%252BIk%2525%252BOQ.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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Short block complete. </div>
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(All work shown in this post was done in 2018)</div>
Coreyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/18379428253948915904noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8648195436757006525.post-31395837746848823642018-12-15T22:24:00.001-07:002018-12-15T22:24:18.321-07:00Adding a Fuel Filler on the GillI haven't posted in a while. It's hard to have a blog that is about a specific serial-numbered car when you don't have it anymore. I've decided to keep going on the blog, even though I no longer own #1998. My goal is to keep updating daily for a few weeks to catch up with the current state. As a preview, the Coyote was rebuilt, the new chassis has a cut firewall, and new shocks were installed. I also sold a bunch of parts to keep going with the build, knowing that it will only get me so far. However, I can do a lot with what I currently have. The new chassis doesn't need body work like the last one did.<br />
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The new chassis needs a fuel filler door since I have all late-Ford-era parts, not to mention the safety of the whole thing.<br />
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<a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-FBa2hN2cAFY/XBXUeFGGkDI/AAAAAAAAD0Q/owJmbVqUpFAqQq8TCPEMmwvSY56qUICIwCLcBGAs/s1600/ZE1Ddk9nQI6E5Xwj0fIbYw.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-FBa2hN2cAFY/XBXUeFGGkDI/AAAAAAAAD0Q/owJmbVqUpFAqQq8TCPEMmwvSY56qUICIwCLcBGAs/s320/ZE1Ddk9nQI6E5Xwj0fIbYw.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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I cut the driver's side gill area, slowly cutting just the minimum. I decided on an aircraft-style filler, black anodized to blend into the gill better.</div>
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<a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-UD52dMP9xFU/XBXUeFVsgLI/AAAAAAAAD0U/L2PBKSXlmgMSK68wNe2qelxFf24CEBcDgCLcBGAs/s1600/rk2owVKTR0SDTdGemgIxow.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-UD52dMP9xFU/XBXUeFVsgLI/AAAAAAAAD0U/L2PBKSXlmgMSK68wNe2qelxFf24CEBcDgCLcBGAs/s320/rk2owVKTR0SDTdGemgIxow.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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The new aircraft style fuel filler had screws that were clocked to orient the filler tab back, as this seemed to look the best.</div>
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<a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-ziDvOEf-ulA/XBXUeJlkBRI/AAAAAAAAD0M/ZqcIDBhnOrYqcpphgj9z4HpIDz3qKYzSgCLcBGAs/s1600/HOpOlfcyR2%252BIxF7pTXI2QQ.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-ziDvOEf-ulA/XBXUeJlkBRI/AAAAAAAAD0M/ZqcIDBhnOrYqcpphgj9z4HpIDz3qKYzSgCLcBGAs/s320/HOpOlfcyR2%252BIxF7pTXI2QQ.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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Finished product, but not completely installed. </div>
<br />Coreyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/18379428253948915904noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8648195436757006525.post-68257101322063569802018-06-04T22:03:00.000-06:002018-06-04T22:03:09.461-06:00The TradeI traded my car body!<br />
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Here's the new, replacement car:<br />
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<a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-1n1pUHVhOVQ/WxYKTPSVaoI/AAAAAAAADmg/4muunXCAEMwffsaDWjZ9UQtt0lN9O5MGQCLcBGAs/s1600/8umpPqyNQb608Yb73%25258pOg.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-1n1pUHVhOVQ/WxYKTPSVaoI/AAAAAAAADmg/4muunXCAEMwffsaDWjZ9UQtt0lN9O5MGQCLcBGAs/s320/8umpPqyNQb608Yb73%25258pOg.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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I now own a 1973 Pantera, which is different than my old car but still not too bad. I hauled the old car to Oklahoma City to meet up with Kirk Evans, who traded me for this car. He now owns 1998, which is fine with me. He has the skills to rebuild the entire car, so let him have it!<br />
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The new car is in much better shape than 1998. Much better shape is an understatement; the car is mostly original. The rear quarter panel has been replaced on the right side, and some work has been done on the decklid and left rear corner. Kirk added gussets and welded key areas, including welding up the unnecessary holes in the rear wheelhouses. There are a couple wrinkles that I hope to correct, such as in the firewall on the right side as well as in the rear wheelhouse. However, rust is minimal throughout the car and it all seems to be in excellent condition.<br />
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I've been working on the Coyote engine, so stay tuned for some updates on the engine progress. Coreyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/18379428253948915904noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8648195436757006525.post-40868396919499088402018-05-24T22:23:00.001-06:002018-05-24T22:23:26.224-06:00Time to Sell (or Trade?)On March 21st, I got a call from the body shop. The body guy told me that my car was beyond financial feasibility to fix, and that I should find another car. I was heartbroken, to say the least. I feel cheated in so many ways!<br />
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I traveled to Oregon on April 13 to pick up the car. I picked up the car, parts, and was on my way home the following day.<br />
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Here's the car before I picked it up:<br />
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Here's the trip to Oregon:<br />
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I worked out a deal with Kirk Evans on a replacement body shell. It turns out the replacement body shell is a 1973 L-model, but equipped with a dual pod dash just like #1998. We agreed to swap body shells and titles, but I had to also give him a good amount of money. I would keep my hood, but he would provide the doors and decklid, pre-fitted to the car. The car was presented in black epoxy primer, bare, and was orange originally. It was in a small crash, but Kirk really straightened it and massaged the sheetmetal to look excellent. The shell turned out, well, stay tuned and I'll continue the story.<br />
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I debated the cash I spent on the swap with multiple people. Here's a few summaries of various conversations:<br />
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<ul>
<li>"Do it, immediately. If it's really ready for paint, it seems like a good deal." (conversation with three people, one a trusted friend who just went thru a similar issue with his car and spent too much repairing his Pantera body. Another was a Pantera owner who just spent much, much more on fixing his wrecked Pantera)</li>
<li>"Be extra careful. Watch for excessive body filler. It doesn't seem like a good deal for a swap." (this is from a guy who charges tens of thousands for a restoration.)</li>
<li>"Be careful, but it sounds like a good way to get out of your present situation and jump years ahead." (Trusted Pantera Vendor)</li>
<li>"You're not getting a good deal. Wait for a barn find or some sucker who doesn't know the car's value and sell all of your parts. You'll be better off" (Pantera Vendor)</li>
<li>"Well, you're stuck. You can jump out now but you'll never get your money out of parts and the time it takes to sell each one. You can find another car or just buckle down and spend the cash on the trade." (Restoration expert)</li>
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Stay tuned for the follow-up story of swapping car bodies and an update on parts. I was very close to having a complete car before the body swap, but the body swap took all available cash and now I'm not as close!Coreyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/18379428253948915904noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8648195436757006525.post-68681824012037532452018-02-28T23:07:00.001-07:002018-02-28T23:07:09.561-07:00Weber 48 IDF Intake for the 351CI picked up an Aussiespeed intake for the 351 Cleveland from a guy in Texas that is importing them and selling them on eBay. I like the fact that he has been importing these and saving everyone on on shipping. Even though I'm working on a Coyote, I'm also keeping my 351 for originality. If I decide to go back to stock, then Weber IDF carburetors are the way I'd like to go. The Aussiespeed intake is a great way to go with Weber carburetors. Unlike the 48 IDF manifold from Hall Pantera, the IDF manifold is a lot shorter. See the manifold measurements <a href="http://www.aussiespeedshop.com/quad-weber-manifolds" target="_blank">here.</a> Interesting that they have put my blog as a link there! I put the 40 IDF body I have on the intake to see how it fits. <br />
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<a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-KyLBKfx3pHU/WpeXmK8f87I/AAAAAAAADhc/70mYgx9DBgck9PAnuPWGe1vdN0uLOEYjACLcBGAs/s1600/IMG_2847.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-KyLBKfx3pHU/WpeXmK8f87I/AAAAAAAADhc/70mYgx9DBgck9PAnuPWGe1vdN0uLOEYjACLcBGAs/s320/IMG_2847.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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I also found two brand-new 48 IDF's for a good deal on the internet. I picked them up and will post when I receive them. I plan to buy two more, but unless I can find them new, I'll just buy two brand-new from Redline.<br />
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I also plan to pick up all of the jetting and linkage needed from Jim Inglese. Jim understands the unique Pantera aspect and builds Weber setups with this intake manifold, and he agreed to sell me the linkage & jetting. My philosophy is that one day, these manifolds, etc. will be gone and I will have missed the boat.<br />
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<br />Coreyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/18379428253948915904noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8648195436757006525.post-31656207175224383142018-01-16T21:45:00.002-07:002018-01-16T21:49:04.993-07:00Updates<br />
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<a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-bBWUe_vIE2Q/Wl7TFN39n9I/AAAAAAAADfI/5T2RKS8KJ3YAV8vaSGIfBGwK8CSE8aENQCLcBGAs/s1600/52539987315__C2B99EFA-DAD2-4589-B1EC-3DCE4B908371.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-bBWUe_vIE2Q/Wl7TFN39n9I/AAAAAAAADfI/5T2RKS8KJ3YAV8vaSGIfBGwK8CSE8aENQCLcBGAs/s320/52539987315__C2B99EFA-DAD2-4589-B1EC-3DCE4B908371.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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Suspension was reinstalled. Note stablemate #2511 in the background.</div>
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<a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Wy80sUohqNM/Wl7TFHsUF4I/AAAAAAAADfM/SfaustZs0psL8dxUda5iNdrz1Olg3ZVoACLcBGAs/s1600/52539989219__F580A09B-DCA3-4C02-9FBC-738DF5016634.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Wy80sUohqNM/Wl7TFHsUF4I/AAAAAAAADfM/SfaustZs0psL8dxUda5iNdrz1Olg3ZVoACLcBGAs/s320/52539989219__F580A09B-DCA3-4C02-9FBC-738DF5016634.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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New wheels look small! The car was put on the frame rack but removed once it was determined that the previous baseline measurements from another car were illegible and needed to be redone. This is how my car sits today.</div>
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-NuklUHZKz90/Wl7TSM_di1I/AAAAAAAADfQ/083T_gWjlCsDiKn2aOs3ce6__xCO13qygCLcBGAs/s1600/IMG_3087.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-NuklUHZKz90/Wl7TSM_di1I/AAAAAAAADfQ/083T_gWjlCsDiKn2aOs3ce6__xCO13qygCLcBGAs/s320/IMG_3087.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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I tore the engine down to a bare block and decided to rebuild the entire thing.</div>
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<a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-ylDU0MaiYXs/Wl7TSBnfO1I/AAAAAAAADfY/U0aOPk_vo3M36bpTtWmmLqTHS6-b9H9SgCLcBGAs/s1600/IMG_3089.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-ylDU0MaiYXs/Wl7TSBnfO1I/AAAAAAAADfY/U0aOPk_vo3M36bpTtWmmLqTHS6-b9H9SgCLcBGAs/s320/IMG_3089.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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Crank removal. The crank looks great, with minimal wear on each journal.</div>
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New Manley H-beam rods with ARP 2000 bolts were purchased. Ford Racing uses these rods in their Aluminator engines, and I'm confident that they will be fine in my engine.</div>
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Mahle forged M142 alloy pistons were purchased 0.010" oversized to fit a machined block. The Mahle pistons are 11.3:1 and have a 1mm/1mm/2mm ring pack and coated skirts. The M142 alloy is unique in that it combines the best of the 2618 alloys with the low-expansion 4032 alloys. This means low noise and good service life while coming close to the ductility of 2618 pistons.</div>
<span id="goog_1643967626"></span><span id="goog_1643967627"></span><br />Coreyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/18379428253948915904noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8648195436757006525.post-85847078542057573832017-07-27T19:07:00.000-06:002017-07-27T19:07:03.581-06:00Coyote Engine Teardown, Part 3<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
I decided to tear the engine down further, not trusting what I was seeing in the cylinder bores. The plan is that if the bores need only honing, I may just replace the rings and have the block honed & surfaced. If the bores need more than honing, I will consider new forged pistons and rods. </div>
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<a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-cS_znVWr_K0/WXPhQJcODdI/AAAAAAAACkk/E-_RYzna6-Ydyo7D3ginugmWsj1EHI9yQCLcBGAs/s1600/IMG_3060.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-cS_znVWr_K0/WXPhQJcODdI/AAAAAAAACkk/E-_RYzna6-Ydyo7D3ginugmWsj1EHI9yQCLcBGAs/s320/IMG_3060.JPG" width="320" /> </a></div>
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Here she is, with no heads and just the oil pan. </div>
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The complete valvetrain, minus valves and such in the heads. </div>
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Oil pump with stock studs showing.</div>
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Rod journals on the crank seem to be okay. </div>
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The bottom end, with loose main cap bolts.</div>
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<a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-CEvws6aERq8/WXPhReGVnvI/AAAAAAAACk4/PMS8tmZ1iSU6cVvscvpiorX7w9vvx9YfwCLcBGAs/s1600/IMG_3088.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-CEvws6aERq8/WXPhReGVnvI/AAAAAAAACk4/PMS8tmZ1iSU6cVvscvpiorX7w9vvx9YfwCLcBGAs/s320/IMG_3088.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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I found the pistons to be quite dirty and full of carbon deposits, probably from burning oil excessively.</div>
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The crankshaft is a work of art.</div>
Coreyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/18379428253948915904noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8648195436757006525.post-36292333825310964552017-07-26T22:32:00.002-06:002017-07-26T22:32:57.762-06:00Coyote Engine Teardown, Part 2<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
The Coyote engine cylinder walls weren't as good as I had hoped. This means a further tear down. Pictures of each cylinder wall:</div>
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Coreyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/18379428253948915904noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8648195436757006525.post-75659750191013610872017-07-25T08:16:00.002-06:002017-07-25T08:16:44.031-06:00Coyote Engine Teardown, Part 1<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
I decided to tear down the Coyote and rebuild it while the car chassis is in Oregon. </div>
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Here's the engine with the intake and injectors removed. </div>
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Removal of right heater core tube.</div>
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Removal of left heater core tube.</div>
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Water pump pulley is removed.</div>
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Next the water pump and thermostat housing.</div>
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Each valve cover is removed. Note stud bolt at back side of valve cover.</div>
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Valve covers removed.</div>
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Front timing cover removed.</div>
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Timing chain tensioners and primary timing chains removed.</div>
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Secondary timing chains removed, with a picture to remember how to orient the secondary chain tensioner slider.</div>
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Camshafts removed, with each set of (small) rockers and lash adjusters.</div>
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Camshafts for left head.</div>
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Looks like I should replace my crank mounted timing gear, given the marks.</div>
<br />Coreyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/18379428253948915904noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8648195436757006525.post-38569217980604623732017-07-24T08:13:00.000-06:002017-07-24T08:13:26.206-06:00After Blasting<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
I was really unhappy with the rattle-can undercoating applied by the previous owner, in an effort probably to hide some of his handiwork. It's all gone now.</div>
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Note the rear corner issues. </div>
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Clean underbelly is good!</div>
<br />Coreyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/18379428253948915904noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8648195436757006525.post-3711654372145622502017-07-22T17:39:00.003-06:002017-07-24T08:13:47.843-06:00At the Blaster<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
Well, part of my car returned. The trip to the blaster took two full months, from May 12 to July 10th or so. I'm told the blasting operator had surgery and was unable to finish the car. </div>
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Stay tuned, I have about five more posts being readied to release in the next few days!</div>
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Looks pretty good, but needs more blasting.</div>
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The shot above was not expected. I think I might have some added metal work...</div>
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<br />Coreyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/18379428253948915904noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8648195436757006525.post-58224363100514889242017-05-11T22:49:00.000-06:002017-07-24T08:14:01.325-06:00Rockers and Front Clip RemovedAnother hot and heavy day in the shop! The outer rocker sheetmetal was removed, as was the entire front outer sheetmetal, minus the cowl vent area. <br />
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Here's the car, with the front clip and rocker sheetmetal removed, minus the front valance.</div>
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Here's the front end, showing the cut valance. It appears I will be replacing this valance with a used valance from a friend.</div>
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The B-pillar doesn't look so good on the passenger's side.</div>
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The passenger's side A-pillar attachment to the roof structure leaves a lot to be desired! It will have to be redone. </div>
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The rear of the car is in the best shape, as can be seen in this recently-sanded rear quarter.</div>
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The passenger's side rear quarter was spliced just behind the wheel, and the back corner could use some work but the panel is otherwise okay.</div>
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The driver's outer rocker was removed, showing the inner rocker. It looks okay.</div>
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The front end without a valance. Not too bad.</div>
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Driver's side lower jamb will be replaced.</div>
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Passenger's side lower jamb will also be replaced.</div>
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Here's the interior, with the steel plates removed. No idea why they were necessary.<br />
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The car is being loaded on a trailer for transport to the blaster.</div>
Coreyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/18379428253948915904noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8648195436757006525.post-7058347279067067342017-05-10T18:29:00.002-06:002017-05-10T18:29:45.109-06:00Roof Scalped!<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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Looks like the roof skin is gone and the rear panels sanded off. </div>
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The three metal bars in the picture are not stock and will be removed. </div>
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The rear has been sanded and all filler removed. </div>
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The front clip will be removed and then the car will be taken to a blaster who will clean off all of the undercoating as well as blast the roof rust away. After blasting, work will begin on the lower rockers and the upper A-pillars.<br />
<br />Coreyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/18379428253948915904noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8648195436757006525.post-30771238523697781112017-04-06T13:22:00.000-06:002017-07-24T08:23:29.301-06:00Car Goes to Finn's Auto Restoration in OregonI loaded the car up and took it to Denny Finn w/ Finn's Auto Restoration, in Woodburn, Oregon. Here's a few pics:<br />
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Denny's shop has several Panteras in it, as I took this screenshot of his new website. He plans to take another picture with seven Panteras being repaired in the same shop.</div>
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Here's Larry Finch's car as it was delivered to his shop.</div>
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Here's what it looked like when I was there. Top notch collision repair on a Pantera isn't easy nor cheap! </div>
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-bpmzQ0Sv5_I/WOaUG6Ivr8I/AAAAAAAACdE/tPz2bn3F5c80jvRMDTUsCvYqyM2NXhKCgCLcB/s1600/XIVI1769.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-bpmzQ0Sv5_I/WOaUG6Ivr8I/AAAAAAAACdE/tPz2bn3F5c80jvRMDTUsCvYqyM2NXhKCgCLcB/s320/XIVI1769.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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Larry's car will look like this once the fenders are welded on. </div>
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I put together a bunch of parts to take with. </div>
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The car looked like this when I left.</div>
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The car looked like this when I arrived... I cut a lot of shrink wrap away but the front end was mostly protected, which was most of the goal.</div>
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<br />Coreyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/18379428253948915904noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8648195436757006525.post-60316069597432938812017-03-03T08:36:00.000-07:002017-03-03T08:36:02.459-07:00What Came Back From BlastingI took the car to the blaster. Here's what came back...<br />
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<br />Coreyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/18379428253948915904noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8648195436757006525.post-2502417786524891082017-02-22T14:12:00.000-07:002017-03-03T08:36:49.114-07:00Loading the ShellWe loaded the shell onto a trailer on Saturday in preparation to take the car to the media blaster to see what's hiding under the body filler.<br />
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<br />Coreyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/18379428253948915904noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8648195436757006525.post-43602123501974687352017-01-09T19:57:00.000-07:002017-01-09T19:57:21.259-07:00Seat Test FitI put the Recaro seats in the car as I was fitting the firewall reinforcement:<br />
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I like how they look!</div>
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I'm test fitting the seats.</div>
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My son and I took a (rare for me) selfie. </div>
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I have a pair of Corvette C4 seats that I won't be using. No idea what to do with them.</div>
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Coreyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/18379428253948915904noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8648195436757006525.post-49241003746217050352017-01-07T19:55:00.000-07:002017-01-08T10:09:11.342-07:00Firewall Opening ReinforcementI added some firewall opening reinforcement using some 1" x 1.1/2" x 0.060" wall tubing. I cleaned off the paint and had a friend come and weld it for me since I don't trust my own welding abilities.<br />
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Here's the tubes, test-fitted.</div>
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My good buddy came and welded it up for me.</div>
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Finished product</div>
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<br />Coreyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/18379428253948915904noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8648195436757006525.post-77620904346652119792016-12-30T21:30:00.005-07:002016-12-30T21:31:18.277-07:00Test-fitting Coyote EngineI have to say that this day has been long in the making. I honestly thought that I could do this in August but it's now December and a lot of my projects are still in process! I'll finish them. <br />
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We started the day by flipping the intake. First, the intake manifold was removed. This engine will take some cleaning and will be getting a head rebuild. </div>
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Next, fit was observed to be impeded in a few places. There's a nub at the back that interferes with the front heater tube, which is easily cut. There are two alignment pins that fit in the head that prevent flipping, again easy to remove. Last, the back lip hits the water return neck and needs a slight trimming. When reinstalling the intake, I'll be careful and come up with a way to align the intake on the heads to avoid a misalignment of the intake ports.</div>
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Here's the intake manifold, flipped.</div>
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I was able to install the upper motor mounts on the block but had to trim one to get it to fit instead of trimming the factory boss. The side in this picture fit without any trimming.</div>
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We slung the engine with tie straps instead of chains; I couldn't find a good place to anchor the chains so we did this instead. There's probably 350 lbs max on the front strap, which is well within its capacity. However, the first attempt to put the motor in was met with disappointment. The engine hoist isn't long enough and the motor was angled not far enough forward. We started to get it in but had a hard time getting it back out to adjust the straps. However, once we move the strap support point back, the engine tilted forward more and it was much easier.</div>
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Although it looks like it's in, the engine is sitting on the mounts in the correct position but the rear transaxle mounts aren't sitting in their place. This is because of clearance issues up front. </div>
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<a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-E02rIX3d87g/WGczdoNVQwI/AAAAAAAACMI/bYuXKo6rfwk41aTwm-rYGgZxI40dzmOewCLcB/s1600/IMG_2460.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-E02rIX3d87g/WGczdoNVQwI/AAAAAAAACMI/bYuXKo6rfwk41aTwm-rYGgZxI40dzmOewCLcB/s320/IMG_2460.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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I'm pretty happy in this picture.</div>
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<a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-8qjo8ACw7aE/WGczdm3f2II/AAAAAAAACMM/HLdsKQic-C8Jjj4UI0xyCw05oovqzVtmACLcB/s1600/IMG_2461.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-8qjo8ACw7aE/WGczdm3f2II/AAAAAAAACMM/HLdsKQic-C8Jjj4UI0xyCw05oovqzVtmACLcB/s320/IMG_2461.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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Chris Hecht helped a lot and wanted his picture taken, too.</div>
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-h7iCMpVstYE/WGcz9KHwh5I/AAAAAAAACMc/x0JWLTFGf6Asx1tps6ytSJvMKgT-tfcjgCEw/s1600/IMG_2487.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-h7iCMpVstYE/WGcz9KHwh5I/AAAAAAAACMc/x0JWLTFGf6Asx1tps6ytSJvMKgT-tfcjgCEw/s320/IMG_2487.JPG" width="240" /></a></div>
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Too close here. There are several areas where further cutting will be required.</div>
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Coreyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/18379428253948915904noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8648195436757006525.post-84288322562240595222016-12-29T22:04:00.000-07:002017-03-03T08:38:42.656-07:00Cutting FirewallWe moved the Pantera into the main garage and started cutting the firewall. I was not really apprehensive about cutting the firewall as it isn't a stock piece. However I am going to reinforce the opening eventually with steel tube.<br />
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<a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-eBB5SYcDI4c/WGXpq7aH3NI/AAAAAAAACKw/XHm2bDb5NE0-LwQEs05DnD_iXNGN37haACLcB/s1600/IMG_2453.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-eBB5SYcDI4c/WGXpq7aH3NI/AAAAAAAACKw/XHm2bDb5NE0-LwQEs05DnD_iXNGN37haACLcB/s320/IMG_2453.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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Here's the firewall with no cuts yet. Notice that the angles and sheet are NOT stock. This is part of the reason I wasn't too worried about cutting my car to fit the engine.</div>
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<a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-3E98Qpve9wU/WGXpqwTKBpI/AAAAAAAACK0/RJGGYAW_aPcy-VJ0BrJRJjllb_SHUtcTwCLcB/s1600/IMG_2452.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-3E98Qpve9wU/WGXpqwTKBpI/AAAAAAAACK0/RJGGYAW_aPcy-VJ0BrJRJjllb_SHUtcTwCLcB/s320/IMG_2452.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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Always measure first. We had some reference photos from Pantera Performance Center that illustrated where to make the first cuts.</div>
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Here I am, cutting away. I tried to keep out of the plane of an exploding cutoff wheel.</div>
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Now I'm cutting the driver's side.</div>
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Here's the finished cut opening.</div>
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Here's the first round of cuts at the passenger's side valve cover.</div>
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<br />Coreyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/18379428253948915904noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8648195436757006525.post-81596591873277546632016-12-27T21:02:00.002-07:002016-12-27T21:02:39.259-07:00New Windshield, AC GrillI bought a glue-in windshield from Panteras By Wilkinson the other day and it arrived today. The box that it was shipped in was supposedly "$100" but it looks like it was $5 in cardboard. I decided on a glue-in windshield since I'm missing three of the four pieces of surrounding stainless trim and I don't care for the rubber look. The glue-in seems so much more modern. I just wish it was a little easier on the wallet. It is still easier on the wallet than buying a windshield, the correct gasket, and then all of the missing stainless pieces. Such a course would be easily double the cost of the glue-in windshield.<br />
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The AC grill is straightforward and the price wasn't too high at $177. I was shocked to see that you put in the lower or upper studs, fasten the studs, then bend the thing into shape! It doesn't come pre-bent. The good thing is it appears to be made of brass, which should be easily bent.</div>
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<br />Coreyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/18379428253948915904noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8648195436757006525.post-7356790858674810862016-12-24T08:30:00.002-07:002016-12-30T21:32:31.842-07:00Recaro SeatsI picked up a pair of Recaro seats; it wasn't easy to do due to a few complications. They fit the Pantera and they feel fantastic! I don't mind cloth; my daily driver has cloth seats. The cloth needs to be high quality cloth and these seem to have it. Dennis Quella modified these already for the Pantera.<br />
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I found them in Seattle for sale for a good deal. Shipping would have made the deal be a lot more expensive. However, my good friend Lynn does business in Seattle and travels there on a regular basis. It turns out Lynn was headed to Seattle within a week or two of buying these. In another complication, the seats were an hour north of where Lynn's business is, but Lynn sent a guy to pick them up for me! What a guy!!! Thanks Lynn!<br />
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<br />Coreyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/18379428253948915904noreply@blogger.com0