Here's a picture looking into the side cover. The small snap ring around the stub axle is visible. There is a small washer below the ring which must also be removed.
Here's the stub axle with the snap ring and washer removed.
Press the stub axle out of the housing. The experts say that placing the cast-iron side covers in the manner shown in the picture as you press the stub axles out is okay if there's not a lot of pressure. My stub axles pressed out with minimal pressure. If the stub axles don't come out easy, stop. You could damage the bearing inside if you put too much pressure on the stub axle and it doesn't move. You could also break the cast iron side cover. If it doesn't come out, it's time to call Dennis Q. or Lloyd B.
One of the stub axles, removed.
I really want to paint the rear cover but don't want to seal on the nuts or some other bad thing. So, with the help of Evan Deneris, I removed the rear cover. There's an idler shaft that sometimes gets caught in the rear cover, and if it comes out with the rear cover, you're going to be sending the whole thing to be disassembled since it'll be hard to re-seal. There are ways to make it stay in the main body, and luckily I didn't have to employ them.
To remove the rear cover, there are two bolt holes near the top (Pantera orientation) with threads. These threads allow for an M8 bolt to be threaded in and put pressure on the case, acting as a built-in puller. Both holes must be used to remove the rear cover.
Here's the cover, removed. Keep track of the washers that come off the output and main shafts.
Here's the inside of the rear cover. You can see where the washers go. Time to clean off the gasket material. It appears that my rear cover was sealed really well, but I didn't know and I want to have a leak-free unit.